How to Install 2" Premium Light Filtering Sheer Shades

1. 1

   Review the packing list and check that you have the correct number of installation brackets for your shading width.

2. 2

   Get fasteners suited to your mounting surface: drywall anchors for drywall, and longer #6 hex head screws if you are using spacer blocks.

3. 3

   If the fabric-covered headrail has a protective plastic cover, leave it on until the shading is installed.

4. 4

   Retractable wand: leave the orange shipping clip in the headrail until you are told to remove it.

5. 5

   Automated: pair the remote to the motor before installing, following the remote's instructions. Connect DC motors that use an external power source to it before operating, or charge motors with internal Li-Ion batteries as directed by the motor or charger.

• 14" to 36" wide: 2 brackets
• 36-1/8" to 79" wide: 3 brackets
• 79-1/8" to 96" wide: 4 brackets
• 96-1/8" to 120" wide: 5 brackets
• Limit stops keep the bottom rail from rotating around the fabric roll. They sit 6" from the ends of the headrail, or centered on shadings narrower than 36".

1. 1

   If you are using the optional back cover, snap the prongs on the back cover brackets into the holes on the back of the installation brackets.

2. 2

   Decide whether to use the front or back set of bracket holes: the back holes for shallow openings, the front holes for a fully recessed mount when the depth allows.

3. 3

   Mark the screw holes with the end brackets 2" to 3" from each jamb and any additional brackets spaced evenly between them, keeping clear of the limit stops. Mount into wood whenever possible.

4. 4

   Two-on-one headrails: place a bracket 3" from each side of the panel split.

5. 5

   Drill the screw holes with a 3/32" drill bit, using drywall anchors in drywall.

6. 6

   Attach the brackets with the screws provided, shimming if needed so they are level with their front edges aligned.

7. 7

   Don't overtighten. Check that each bracket's lever moves easily side to side; if not, loosen the screws in 1/8-turn increments until it does.

• Minimum depth for the brackets: 1"
• Minimum depth for a fully recessed mount: 3-5/16"
• Add 1/4" to these depths if you use the back cover.

The back cover hides the open back of the headrail for a neater look from outside.

1. 1

   Trim the back cover to the width you need, if necessary.

2. 2

   Fit the back cover into the back cover brackets attached to the installation brackets.

1. 1

   Center the headrail over the window opening at the height you want and lightly mark each end with a pencil, or measure the headrail and mark its end points over the opening.

2. 2

   Mark 2" to 3" in from each headrail end mark for the end brackets. Space any additional brackets evenly between them.

3. 3

   Two-on-one headrails: place a bracket 3" from each side of the panel split.

4. 4

   Center the brackets on your marks with their tops at the desired height, and mark the screw holes.

5. 5

   Drill with a 3/32" drill bit, using drywall anchors in drywall.

6. 6

   Attach the brackets with the screws provided, keeping their tops level and front edges aligned. Mount into wood whenever possible.

• Installation brackets need a flat vertical surface at least 1-1/8" tall; extension brackets need 1-1/4".
• The back of each bracket must sit flush against a flat surface. Do not mount on curved molding.

1. 1

   Spacer blocks (1/4" and 1/2"): attach the spacer block(s) and installation bracket together to a flat vertical surface with #6 screws long enough for a secure hold. Do not add more than 1 1/2" of clearance with spacer blocks.

2. 2

   Extension brackets: mount them on your marks, then attach an installation bracket to the underside of each with the speed nuts and screws provided.

3. 3

   Keep the tops of all brackets level with their front edges aligned.

Use an end mount when conventional mounting won't work, such as in an arched window opening.

1. 1

   Mount the extension brackets on a flat vertical surface at least 1-1/4" wide.

2. 2

   Attach the installation brackets to the extension brackets with the screws and speed nuts provided.

3. 3

   If you are not mounting into a secure wall stud, use medium- to heavy-duty wall anchors matched to the wall thickness.

4. 4

   If you are using the back cover, install it in the back cover brackets.

• Add 1/4" to the 1-1/4" minimum depth if using the back cover.

1. 1

   Peel back the protective covering from the top of the fabric-covered headrail, leaving it on the front.

2. 2

   Hold the shading with its front facing you.

3. 3

   Slide the headrail into the brackets so its edge sits between the lever and the bracket.

4. 4

   Push the headrail firmly into each bracket until it clicks and the lever snaps to the right side of the bracket.

5. 5

   Pull carefully on the headrail at each bracket to make sure it is secure.

6. 6

   Remove the rest of the protective covering.

The dust cover protects the top of the headrail on outside-mounted shadings.

1. 1

   Cut the dust cover to the width you want.

2. 2

   Peel the paper backing from one side of the hook and loop dots and stick them to the installation brackets at each end of the shading.

3. 3

   Remove the remaining paper backing from the dots.

4. 4

   Center the dust cover over the top of the shading and press it down onto the dots.

1. 1

   Lower the shading fully, keeping the vanes closed.

2. 2

   Place a magnetic hold-down bracket on the bottom rail just inside each end cap.

3. 3

   Holding the bracket, open and close the vanes and adjust it to the best overall position.

4. 4

   Mark the screw location on the window frame, sill or wall.

5. 5

   Attach the brackets with the screws provided, placing the screw in the middle of the channel so you can adjust the height later. Use drywall anchors in drywall.

• To adjust the height, loosen the screw and slide the bracket up or down.

1. 1

   Mount and secure the cord tensioner following the Universal Cord Tensioner instructions. The shading will not work properly unless it is secured.

2. 2

   To lower the shading, pull the rear cord of the loop.

3. 3

   With the shading fully lowered, keep pulling the rear cord to tilt the bottom rail and open the vanes.

4. 4

   To close the vanes and raise the shading, pull the front cord.

• The vanes only open when the shading is fully lowered; they stay closed in any raised position.

1. 1

   To lower, pull down slowly and steadily on the bottom rail handle.

2. 2

   To open the vanes, put your thumb on the front of the handle and fingers on the back, and gently pull the back of the handle down and away from the shading. Use the handle to tilt the vanes to the position you want.

3. 3

   To raise, push down on the front of the handle to close the vanes, then push up slowly and steadily on the handle.

1. 1

   Remove the orange shipping clip by grabbing its edge and pulling straight down.

2. 2

   Take the wand out of its packaging.

3. 3

   Gently pull out the bumper and threaded connector until you can see them.

4. 4

   Holding the bumper against the connector, hand-tighten the wand onto the connector, with the bumper aligned and seated tightly on top.

5. 5

   To lower, pull the wand out from the fabric at an angle greater than 25 degrees. The clutch clicks and the shading lowers in a controlled way as the vanes open. Pull the wand straight down to stop at any position.

6. 6

   To open the vanes, after the shading is fully lowered keep pulling the wand at an angle greater than 25 degrees until they are fully open.

7. 7

   To close the vanes and raise the shading, hold the wand close to the fabric and pump it straight down with short strokes.

• Avoid pulling the wand in the zone between the lowering angle and straight down.
• Don't let go of the wand until it is fully retracted. Use strokes no longer than 42" and don't force it.

1. 1

   Uneven raising or lowering, fabric rubbing one end, or an uneven bottom rail: check that the window is square by measuring the diagonals and that the brackets are level (shim if needed).

2. 2

   Then adjust the bottom rail weight: release the weight clips by turning a flat blade screwdriver in them clockwise, move the weight in 1" steps toward the side where the fabric gathers, lock the clips counterclockwise, and test.

3. 3

   Shading won't snap into the brackets: check that the brackets are aligned and level and that each bracket's locking tab slides over the headrail.

4. 4

   Bottom rail doesn't stop at the top: check both limit stops. The limit stop should catch the bottom rail and sit slightly above or barely touching the fabric roll. If it is too tight, pull back on its rear to move it one step up; if too loose, move it one step down. If the bottom rail has rotated through the headrail, back it out first.

5. 5

   Hard to raise or lower: make sure an inside mount shading has clearance at both ends of the casement, the brackets are level, and the fabric isn't catching on brackets or window parts.

6. 6

   Automated motor not responding: recharge the motor battery with a compatible AC adapter, replace or correctly insert the remote battery, keep the remote and the motor's aerial wire away from metal, move the remote closer, and check the power supply and wiring.

• Set both limit stops to the same position, or the shading may skew.
• Vanes on side-by-side shadings are only guaranteed to align within 1/4" when ordered together at the same height, color and fabric, and specified on the order.

1. 1

   Raise the shading fully.

2. 2

   Move the lever on each bracket to the left to release the shading; a flat blade screwdriver can help.

3. 3

   If a lever can't be reached or won't move, lower the shading until you can see the underside of the bracket.

4. 4

   Reach a small flat blade screwdriver behind the shading to the tab on the bottom of the bracket, between the screw holes, and push the tab away from the shading.

5. 5

   Carefully pull the headrail out of the bracket, without tearing or damaging the fabric.