How to Install Faux Wood Plantation Shutters

Match each frame to its panels using the line numbers on the removable labels. Leave the labels on until the shutters are installed.

Lay the frame sides flat beside the panels so the frame and panel hinges line up.

Check that the frame pieces are pre-drilled. If not, drill installation holes with a 3/8" bit through the first layer of polyresin only: on the side frames just below each hinge (just above the bottom hinge), and on the top and bottom frames evenly spaced no more than 16" apart.

Insert the plastic corner keys into both ends of the top and bottom frames.

Slide the corner keys on the top and bottom frames into the ends of the side frames.

Tap the frame firmly with a rubber mallet so the corner keys are fully engaged.

Apply Loctite 414 or contact cement inside the corner key cavity of both pieces at each corner.

Insert the corner key, making sure the mitered corner is clean, tight and aligned.

Hold firmly until set, 10 to 20 seconds.

Repeat for the remaining corners.

Lay the frame face down.

Set a metal L bracket on the back of the frame at each corner.

Secure each bracket with 4 of the supplied #6 x 5/8" screws.

If small gaps show at the corners, seal them with caulk once the shutter is fully installed.

Place the assembled frame in the window opening right side up, using the labels to identify each piece.

Center the frame and drive #8 x 1 1/2" screws through the pre-drilled holes at the top of each side frame into the window jambs.

Hang the panels and insert the hinge pins in the top and bottom hinges only.

Level the panels: first slide the bottom frame left or right. If that isn't enough, remove the top left screw, move the left side frame up or down until the panels are level, and reinstall the screw. Repeat on the right side if needed.

Alternatively, remove the top right screw, loosen or tighten the top left screw until the panels are level, then reinstall the top right screw.

With the panels level and square, hold the bottom frame in place and drive a screw in the middle bottom frame hole. If a marble sill or similar prevents this, use the lower side frame holes instead.

Drive the remaining screws, checking that the panels are still level after each one.

Cap all screw holes with the provided button plugs, glue on the L-frame cover strip if you ordered one, and seal any gaps around the frame or corners with caulk or sealant.

Place the assembled frame in the opening right side up. The top of the frame has more space between the top hinge and the frame edge.

Put a #8 x 1 1/2" screw in both the left and right top side frame holes, center the frame in the opening, then drive the screws into the window jambs.

Hang the panels and insert the hinge pins in the top and bottom hinges only.

Level the panels the same way as for the L frame: slide the bottom frame first, then adjust the left side frame, then the right.

With the panels level and square, hold the bottom frame in place and drive a screw in the middle bottom frame hole if the sill allows.

Drive the remaining screws, checking that the panels are still level after each one.

Cap all screw holes with button plugs and seal any gaps with caulk.

Hold the assembled frame over the opening right side up. The top of the frame has more space between the top hinge and the frame edge.

Put a #8 x 1 1/2" screw in both the left and right top side frame holes. Drive the left screw first, make sure the frame is level, then drive the right screw.

Hang the panels and insert the hinge pins in the top and bottom hinges only.

Level the panels: slide the bottom frame left or right; if needed, move the left side frame up or down; if needed, move the right side frame.

Make sure the bottom frame is level, hold it in place and drive a screw in the middle bottom frame hole.

For minor support or leveling, turn the adjustable jamb cap at the bottom of the vertical jamb stile.

Drive the remaining screws, checking that the panels are still level after each one.

Cap all screw holes with button plugs and seal any gaps with caulk or sealant.

With 4-sided frames, the panel lock needs no installation: the caps are already in the ends of the stiles and the plungers lock into the frame groove.

Drill 3/8" holes through the first layer of polyresin on the front face of the T-post, starting about 2" from the top and then about every 10" to 15".

Screw the T-post in through the top and bottom holes, keeping it plumb.

Hang the panels to check that the sight lines are even and everything is level.

If no adjustment is needed, install the remaining screws and cap all holes with button plugs.

Lay out the top and bottom frames with the light block facing up.

Stack two T-post alignment blocks with their tabs facing down and set them on the light block so their holes line up with the frame's pre-drilled holes. The tabs hang off the inside edge of the light block.

Attach the blocks to each frame with two #6 x 1 3/4" T-post block screws, snug but not fully tight, so the T-post can still slide side to side.

Insert the corner keys and attach the left and then the right side frames to the top frame.

Slide the T-post over the blocks on the top frame, then attach the bottom frame, making sure the T-post sits over the blocks and the corner keys line up with the side frames.

Install the frame following the standard steps.

Test-fit the panels to find the T-post position, mark it on the frame with a pencil, and remove the panels.

With the bottom of the T-post in place, drive a #8 x 1 1/2" screw horizontally through the pre-drilled hole in its end so it passes between the two blocks and locks the T-post.

Repeat at the top of the T-post and cap the holes with button plugs.